Less is more at Lemaire...
To paraphrase an old Kings of Convenience album - Quiet is the new loud!
The Spring Summer 24 Menswear show for Christophe Lemaire may have been quiet but it resonated very loudly. This wonderful wonderful show was the antithesis of the Louis Vuitton show and moved me more deeply.
Set on an open concourse at the Pierre and Marie Curie University, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, inspired by their travels in Vietnam, created their own little corner of the world complete with its own weather. Serene models walked through a downpour to a soundtrack of city noises, rain, birdsong and live ambient music.
The LEMAIRE show is an idea of travel made of superimpositions, ties, hoods, soaked colors and light materials, where the sensation of freedom, inherent in adventure and movement, converges. Inspired by a trip to Vietnam, this airy, functional collection sets up displacement as a way of experiencing otherness, changing appearance or dressing to blend into the landscape.
Clothing is an ally here, capable of being worn over the shoulder or cross-body with an inner belt so as not to interfere with walking. It is also practical, like this vest, a tribute to those worn by great reporters with pockets to hold all the travel essentials. Lightened by a choice of breathable fabrics, airy cottons or flowing silks that ensure comfort despite the heat, the garment protects against the unexpected and raging elements thanks to a rain cape, a removable hood or a visor to keep out the sun.
Some pieces in coated cotton have a sheen that evokes a downpour. In the midst of wet colors, others make their appearance, whether inspired by the rain capes and tarpaulins used in Southeast Asia (ochre, green, taupe, khaki), more tropical (ice apricot, lemon glazed) or deliberately tired, like these solarized stripes and floral prints whose patina suggests a road that has been travelled.
Adaptability is at the heart of each garment, meticulously designed to meet the needs of the modern nomad. A delicate touch elevates these versatile pieces beyond the ordinary: unexpected drapes, asymmetrical cuts and ingenious details infuse the Spring/Summer 2024 collection with LEMAIRE's signature aesthetic
Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” - Antoine de Saint-Exupe
I would happily wear everything in this show.
Queen Marie x